Beautiful “Big Day” Makeup: A Step-by-Step Guide

Today's guest post is by Deanna Gabelein, a local Austin professional Makeup Artist.

Applying makeup for your wedding day requires additional efforts probably not in your everyday repertoire. A couple of things to consider are 1) how your makeup will photograph and 2) whether you have appropriate products that will look good from morning brunch until after the reception.

Have no fear, armed with a few industry secrets, you’ll be able to do it yourself, no problem!

Okay, on to step number one:

1. Prep - Wash your face, apply moisturizer and/or sunscreen, then apply a foundation primer. Foundation primers are fantastic. They extend the wear of your foundation,reduce the appearance of large pores and small wrinkles, and decrease oiliness. Yay!

2. Foundation – Apply foundation to your entire face except your under eye area. I recommend using a high quality foundation with staying power for your wedding day. (I use Rae Cosmetics on my bridal clients. It looks great, is awesome for your skin, AND is humidity and sweat resistant. Major bonus for those outdoor summer celebrations.) Be aware that foundations high in SPF, especially natural ones like zinc and titanium,can reflect light back at the camera and make your face appear lighter than the rest of your body.

3. Eye Makeup – Okay. Your eyes are going to need extra definition to show up in photos. That means contouring with eye shadow, darker liner, and false eye lashes… are strongly recommended. Following is information on creating the popular “smoky eye” look. If you’re fair, use a medium brown for contouring; if you’re olive-skinned or darker, use dark brown.

a. To begin, prime your entire lid and crease area, all the way up to the brow bone, with an eye shadow primer, foundation (if it’s oil and sunscreen-free), or a small amount of concealer. Make sure you also cover the darker, recessed area at the bridge of your nose. This will keep your eyes looking bright and your eye makeup in place throughout the day.

b. Next, dust a light, flesh-colored eye shadow over the same area you applied the primer. This is your “base” color. Matte colors, like bone and vanilla, work well on almost everyone.

c. Place your darker contour color on the outer 1/3 of eye lid and in the outer ½ of your crease. Don’t blend yet, just blot on color. Also, use an eye liner brush to line the bottom lash line with this same color – all the way to the inner eye. Use a Q-Tip to soften the line.

d. Now, dip your blending brush (I use different ones for the base and blending) in the base color and use it to blend the edges of your contour color, using a circular motion. This is the secret to seamless blending. Add another layer of the contour color to the crease, using the same technique, if you think you need it.

e. Use a black eyeliner pencil or gel to line the outer ½ of your top lash line then smudge the line with your finger or a Q-Tip. Apply a thin layer of dark brown or black eye shadow over the line to soften the look and “set” the eye liner.

f. Curl lashes and apply false eye lashes. I use Ardell #110 which are very natural looking. Usually, I cut them in half and place them on the outer corners of the upper lids. Again, it looks very natural and… you get 2 pairs of lashes for the price of one. (It’s AMAZING how much lashes add definition to the eyes! Absolutely gorgeous in photos, I promise.)

g. Apply 2 coats of black, waterproof mascara to the upper and lower lashes. Use an eyelash comb to separate after coats.

h. Now, using a makeup sponge, apply foundation under eyes and all the way up the sides of the eyes, towards the brow. You’re using the sponge to adjust the “liner” under eye to the desired depth and to “clean up” any shadow too far outside the eye area.

4. Eyebrows – Brush eyebrows upright and fill in any gaps to define the shape using a brow pencil or powder. Remember, if you need your brows waxed, do it about 7 – 10 days before your wedding. The same goes for facials.

5. Concealer – Use a concealer brush to apply flesh-colored concealer only to the under eye circles. None should be placed past the point where the circle ends. This prevents the dreaded reverse raccoon look in photos. Most women benefit from a little concealer at the sides of the nose, too. Sometimes I’ll put a little at the bow (top) of the lips and underneath the middle of the lower lip to make the lips look fuller. If you have blemishes on your face or chest, use a clean, fine-tipped eyeliner brush and apply flesh-toned concealer only to the blemish – not any of the surrounding area. This is the trick to making them disappear. Easy as pie! I mean, wedding cake.

6. Face Powder – Brush face powder over your entire face including a light sweep under eyes to set concealer.

7. Blush – Use a natural-looking blush color with minimal or no shimmer. Smile – then softly dust the blush from the apples of your cheeks all the way up the cheekbone.

8. Lips – Use lip liner. You’ll need the definition in photos… and it helps your lip color stay put. I prefer lipstick over gloss at weddings since it lasts longer, isn’t as transferable or smudgy when you’re doing all that smooching, and usually looks better in photos. If you love your gloss, though, just don’t forget to use lip liner with it.

It’s a great idea to do a trial-run of your wedding makeup a week or two before the big event. Have someone take a picture of you to see how your makeup will appear in photos.

Also, don’t start any new skin care routines or products a month before the wedding. You’re going for “wow” reactions, not allergic ones. Of course, to get your teeth picture perfect,you may want to use over-the-counter bleaching strips prior to your Big Day.

Allot an hour to apply your wedding makeup. Likely, it’ll take less time than that but best not to be rushed. For best results, apply your makeup in natural light.

For touch-ups, don’t forget to carry oil blotting sheets, lipstick, and a small mirror in your purse. Have your Maid/Matron of Honor monitor your makeup throughout the day – telling you when you’re shiny or need some lipstick. Happy Wedding Day, Gorgeous!

To get more great wedding day makeup tips or to chat with Deanna, visit AustinMakeUp.com or check her out on Facebook!